Taking the high road - accommodation and active holidays in the Alpes de Haute Provence - France

On the road again! – to see friends in the geological paradise which is the Alpes de Haute Provence.

Rather like the Mercantour –  engendering a “where’s that”?, the 04/05 departments possess a wealth of potential for the active.

The land is a real spectacle of strata, outcrops, weird shapes……and the valley terrain, a feast of fruit – so do not fear that you might miss out on your “five a day”, as you pedal past!!

Rather sandwiched between us – well – the Mercantour, in the South – and the Ecrins and the Savoie to the North – the area has perhaps been rather overlooked as a holiday venue.

No shortage of lakes, cliffs, great walking between limestone outcrops and scarily beautiful shale………rolling hills.

Absolutely perfect perfect for walking, climbing, road or mountain biking……….taking in the orchids….

Our friend, Liz Green, is just in the throes of setting up her lovely home near Laragne-Montéglin for accommodation, or as a base for holidays from 2019 – lots of good times in prospect….more information available soon.

Alas this weekend – it was wet, so we enjoyed the landscape under super cloud formations and partially sun lit skies…………we did however manage lots of good talking and eating.

I’d like to understand much more of the soil turmoil……the geology, the Napoleon route, the local GRs……next time, with apologies for not to be able to report more currently.

For more info  - les Alpes de Haute Provence.  Easy to get to/from Marseille airport by car or public transport.

Our journey back – and we decided to try out La Taverne in Villars sur Var (we know Simone at Les Platanes, but there was no table on the day).  Kinda quirky – Roger and Raymonde offering simple, but well-made food (wish they wouldn’t add minced beef to their blette (swiss chard) ravioli!) – and very good local wine. 

Liz Lord

Photo credits – Liz Green - with thanks

Furry/feathered fauna in the Mercantour

It is excellent to see the cross border collaboration between the French and the Italians striving to achieve UNESCO world heritage site status for the National Parks and for other areas in the Alpes-Maritimes and Liguria/Piedmont.

In addition to the French Mercantour National Park web site there is also a site for the combined Parks,

with some English.

Even here in “sunny” – I wish – Berthemont - it has been very interesting recently to see a whole host of tracks left in the snow – badger, fox, deer, roe deer, wild boar and all manner of birdies…..owls a hooting too of course…..and currently all fed up of the Ark weather that the United Kingdom and Europe have been having….

Further afield in the Park itself, there is the equivalent of the Big 5 in Africa – if not quite so prestigious – but hey I’m happy to see ibex, chamois, wolves, golden eagles and lammageias – not bad for starters.  

The diversity extends to the micro too, with the presence of many hundreds of insect/invertebrate species which have been lurking around since the Ice Age and many of which are threatened.

Fun to spot a ptarmigan in the Northern stretches of the Park, as well as green lizards on its Southern boundaries…..

For anyone particularly keen on learning more – look here for a page in English about various topics relating to both National Parks – from where you can download pdf files – currently in French  and Italian only – am sure that Google translate would give a not bad version if your language skills are not tip top.

Want to get to grips with the Mercantour – contact the only British holiday company to be based here in the Mercantour – in the fine Vésubie valley.

Accommodation only or self guided/guided  walking holidays in France  - plus adventure holidays for the adrenaline orientated!!

www.space-between.co.uk

Liz Lord & Mel Jones

Berthemont les Bains

Easter in the Mountains in the South of France?!!

Need a last minute holiday in France? - Easter is VERY early this year for sure - in Northern Europe we all seems to have suffered a severe dousing of rain and snow - and once the sun does come out we are looking for a bummer crop of grass for our hungry horses!

However one thing at a time - while it might have been raining here at 861m - up higher - and we do have higher! - the snow is astonishing - which has lead most of our ski resorts here - including La Colmiane, Auron, Isola 2000 etc and of course Le Boreon - for the wolf park and cross country skiing - never mind the perfect untrodden opportunities for snow shoeing in the Mercantour!! - staying open for the Easter weekend,

It seems as if people both here and in the UK have rather been hedging their bets - and there does appear to be accommodation available at this late stage in the game - including for our gites in Berthemont les Bains ......

We're also running a snow shoeing week from April 6th - once the holiday flights prices have subsided...this was meant to be a Mercantour Reflections week - but hey ho - let's not put those snow shoes away as yet.....it's perfect - as when the sun does come out it has been close to 20 degrees in the midday sun - just about okay to enjoy a tartiflette in the sunshine......

A last minute walking break in France - get it booked - fly to Nice and let us do the rest!!!

Vegetarians are very welcome......

Hope to see you soon.....

Liz
spacebetween

The “old Salt” in the Alpes-Maritimes

It’s hard to imagine that humble salt has been transported around the South of France for over two thousand years.  This white gold was produced on the salt flats around Marseille, transported East along the coast of the Med and then taken North with the assistance of mule packs. In its hey day up to 35000 mule trips were made in SE France and on the Italian border.
One route leads from Nice and up towards the Vésubie and the head of the valley. The other major route started from Ventimiglia, up the Roya Valley, to the col deTende and then down into Piedmont.  If you are a keen mountain biker you can even cycle this route these days!!
As you can imagine the history this transport has always been hot – with much danger from marauding hoards and super greedy powers that be, with the Savoyards creating a new route between Nice and Turin via the Haute Vésubie – all within the Savoy territory. 
The Col de Fenestre however was not the most practical solution as the high passes could not be tackled during the winter, so the Roya remained an important route.  Many of the fine hanging villages which dominant the Roya were heavily fortified.
Various shenanigans over the centuries lead to the routes being diverted over the Col de Brouis and via Berghe, being extended towards Menton – all in the cause of protectionism!!
From the 15^th Century up to the French Revolution in 1789 the Gabelle (salt tax) was a controversial measure, perhaps due to the fact that the clergy and nobility were exempt from it!  It is said in fact that the Gabelle was a significant factor in igniting the French way back when.
Think on when you are flavouring up your dinner this evening!!!

Various stretches of the Salt Route in the South of France form part of the itinerary of spacebetween’s walking holidays in France.

Image - Sospel village centre

Authion – walking in military history

Jo Sinnott from the Travel Channel, wild camped over night on the Authion Plateau, comfy’ed up in her tent with her steady (motorbike) steed parked just outside. The series “Wild Camping” follows her adventures around Europe on her faithful machine and takes her to some surprising places – where you might never believe she could camp outside!!

If you can pick up Travel Channel programmes, the summary of Jo’s time in the Alpes-Maritimes is a fascinating look-see at all there is to offer here in one of the sexiest departments that France possesses. The Mercantour holiday specialists, spacebetween, supported the filming team in their explorations of the Alpes-Maritimes.

The tranquillity of the place and its magnificent views rather belie its rather chequered history of skirmishing, which given its strategic look out point position is scarcely surprising.

The County of Nice had been part of the Savoy-Piedmont kingdom since 1388, and from a military point of view, Authion has its strategic mark made in earlier wars, such as the French revolution. In 1793 and 1794, weak Austrian and Sardinian forces retrenched there, held out against French troops, who were then forced to make a big detour via the Republic of Genoa to attack their rear guard.

In 1859, the Napoleon III and Cavour made a secret agreement: the French people would help Piedmont to cast off the Austrians, in exchange for France being handed Nice and the Savoy county. After the battles of Magenta and Solferino, the peace deal was signed and the County of Nice became French in 1860, despite the England’s opposition. Relations were always tense as King Victor-Emmanuel was determined to keep his fabulous hunting grounds further north in the Mercantour.

In WWII as part of the Maginot Line which stretches to Sainte Agnès, the Authion defensive system dissuaded Italians to attack from 1940.

In March 1945, General De Gaulle wanted the French army to take back territory which was still occupied by the Germans. The battle of Authion raged from April 10 to 24, and caused a massive loss to the French - 280 killed and 1,000 wounded, in comparison to 100 killed on the German side. All a last minute tragedy with the Armistice being but a few weeks away.

Visitors today can enjoy the ride up to the Col de Turini, and past the small family sized ski station of Camp D’Argent before, in the winter, parking up and donning snow shoes, for a relaxed snow shoe walk, or in the summer can either take a stroll on foot, or drive round a circuit from where you can appreciate the fort, an old tank which remains there, and the remains of barracks buildings. It rarely fails to impress on atmosphere. The site is easily reachable from the French Riviera, and from the Mercantour National Park. It is often used by the Mercantour’s walking and adventure company specialist, spacebetween, as a easy gradient day out during their walking holiday breaks.

Spring has sprung - come take a walking break in France!!

The uncertainty of the French elections, plus the rather late dawning realisation that France may be affected by the global economic crisis, seem to be stopping the French from booking accommodation or walking holidays in France.


The British however, perhaps gee'd up by the excitement of the prospect of an extra Bank Holiday in early June, which falls the very week of school half term, seem to be very keen to move. Apparently a large number of holiday makers have transposed their summer holidays to the mega early Easter (early April - a month away!) and early June, rather than hanging on in there until July and August, when no doubt in the lure of the Olympics will keep them at home - here's hoping that Londoners in particular will be glued to a TV screen rather than taking their chances out on the roads - I imagine it will be bedlam!!




We happy chappies in France will be avoiding all that and are looking forward to welcoming the early escapees from the old country. To this end we've added some extra dates for our spring short breaks - trying to squeeze in holidays between the few expensive days for flights, plus if you must come and do via ferrata (yes that is me Liz on the VF!) you would be welcome to book just accommodation only here in Berthemont. The short break holiday packages - there's a handful of them appeal to families, couples and single travellers and include special interests, such as wolf watching, and for, later in the year, the Merveilles Valley and ogling the fantastic array of botany we have in the Alpes-Maritimes.

We had the very cold snap but are now back to enjoying blue skies and temperatures of up to 20 degrees (it's been foggy on the coast recently - yay!!). Long may it continue - the fair weather may have put paid to our winter walking and snowshoeing holiday season but one door shuts and another one opens....after the pizzazz of the Carnaval and the Lemon Festival which end shortly - March is usually a quiet month here in the Alpes-Maritimes - although there is often a good time to be had for Saint Patrick's Day.....thanks to the numerous ex-pats from the Emerald Isle and the French alike. This year it is on Saturday March 17 - also notably the day of the Wales/France match in the rugby Six Nations....so it could be a hot sort of evening!!!

Sainte Agnes based walking holidays!!

Excellent to see this great reportage about the hanging village of Sainte Agnes - just behind the Italianate town of Menton on the French Riviera. The winter base of spacebetween's horse partner Denis Longfellow, the village is stacked full of charm (and lovely people as the video shows!) and it remarkably unspoilt - given its proximity to the coast - about 4 miles as the crow flies but a windy (full of bends not wind!!) climb to about 1000m. It is justifiably renowned as one of the prettiest villages in France, and makes a perfect centre for a walking, or riding holiday, rolling hills with excellent views down to the Mediterranean to the South and the magnificent Mercantour National Park to the North. What a place to be!!! Finish the day with a mooch around Fred's lovely stained glass shop and a traditional meal (no frozen ready meals here) in either the Hotel Saint Yves - a family run friendly hotel and resto, or the Righi - with a Michelin star view and great value prices.

Contact spacebetween for more details - details of their holiday week is here http://www.space-between.co.uk/walking-holiday-france-ste-agnes.html plus there is also the possibility to rent a house for up to 10 in the summer months.

Why snowshoe?? The ultimate winter walking holiday!!!

We are just offering our final places for our winter walking holidays in the Mercantour for the winter season 2011/2012.

It is great to see that snow shoeing is gaining in popularity - and you don't have to be a super fit hard nut to enjoy the sport either!!! The crazies might be interested in snow shoe running events - yes really - but for most mere mortals - snow shoes are an excellent way of getting out in the white stuff with minimal effort.

Snow shoes - used by Man for centuries used to be tennis racquet type affairs - formerly crafted from wood and animal gut - which attached to the foot allowed hunters and keen beans, the chance to move around in the snow, without sinking in too much. Today, and fortunately, the equipment is more sophisticated. The cheaper end of the market does recreate the tennis effect, but these shoes, with rubber attachments are best avoided as you slide around like nobodies business. Best to stick with a reliable brand such as TSL - these wonder items - can be adjusted to fit your boot size and have attachments around the toe and the ankle area. Wearers are armed (or footed!) with a studded base, and a super evil front "claw" which can be kicked into snow on steep inclines, It is best to leave the base plate loose from your foot on ascent, or even engage the natty "heel" which raises the back of your foot and puts less strain on your calves. Coming down hill - and to prevent balling up of the snow (surprisingly heavy!) - it is best to attach the base plate so there is no flapping around and you can floof (spacebetween trademark verb!) downhill - scree running style with less danger. This also avoids the risk of making an unside down "v" with your snow shoe - not recommended at all!

What we at spacebetween particularly like about snow shoeing is its suitability for all ages, sizes and fitness levels and the opportunity it gives to get off piste and into the wilderness. In the Mercantour , we have little shortage of that!!! Starting out in at say 1700m in a snow free zone, it might seem a pest to have to strap the blighters to your ruck sack but once you are in the snow - you will be grateful indeed. It's also useful to pack a pair of rubber over shoes into your sack for areas of little snow but some ice - these are cheap, compact, and easy to pack away.

You quickly gain confidence in your snow shoes and just need to remember to walk a little like a duck (legs slightly apart), so you don't fall over your feet. Sure it's quite strenuous exercise but you can take it all at your own pace. Poles are a great boon, allowing you to get into a rythmn, nordic walking style, plus offer a bit of support for difficult traverses.

Minded to act to get away from grey skies in the UK and into some great walking terrain - well give us a shout.

Merveilles Valley - walking holidays in France

Bronze Age Power – Magic walking holidays in France

It’s hard to imagine even today what drew early Man to this remote valley in the Mercantour – the Alpes-Maritimes’ natural treasure trove.

Whichever of the many current theories it was (Chariots of the Gods’esque if you wish), the valley inspired Man to create tens of thousands of carvings on the surfaces of the creamy coloured (not blue!) rocks.

They leave a truly incredible insight into their unique culture which can really be brought to life with a visit accompanied by a local guide. (Many of the most interesting carvings can only be explored with a guide).

Over the years the valley was left to enjoy its isolation as many considered that the valley was a place of ill omen. The combination of frequent violent thunder storms (attracted to Mount Bego) and the eerie carvings, creating much fear through the vivid imagination of early inhabitants.

In more rational times in the late 19th century, Englishman Clarence Bicknell made the first detailed study of the carvings (The French dispute this of course!). Over the course of twenty one years he documented over 12000 carvings. Subsequent studies have “unearthed” many thousands more. The images are simplistic in their nature, depicting animals, weapons and tools, geometric shapes, figures, and abstract forms.

To say much more about their meaning would be to spoil the fun of an evocative day out in the Merveilles!! Go and see for yourself!

Just under three quarters of visitors to the Mercantour come to explore the Merveilles valley – yet it remains surprising that most Anglo Saxons don’t seem to be aware of this (proposed) World Heritage Site.

Until recently the valley was only accessible on foot. This can be done from either – the west – from the Gordolasque valley (from the Vésubie) or from the Minière valley – the east (from the Roya).

The approach from the west is much more inspiring as the walker is rewarded with the view of meadows and lakes, down to the valley, having reached the Pas de l’Arpette.

From the east, despite the fact that visitors can enjoy an hour or so in the very interesting Tende museum, the walk is easier but less exciting, especially when the silence is broken by the 4x4s, now (fingers crossed – not for much longer) allowed to ply their way up the valley.

No point in donning your boots at the moment as there will still be two metres of snow up in the valley. The best time of year to go is in June or July when the sight of the wild flowers is enough to make even a grown man weep, or in the autumn when colours are starting to turn.

Risk August and there will be too many people in the rather gloomy Merveilles refuge, and you probably will get very wet – although you will understand the magic of the place in the course of the drenching!!

If you want to stay over, avoid the Merveilles refuge at any time of year, and instead either wild camp, (six or more people can stay in a teepee – contact us about this!) or head to the Fontanalbe refuge.

At the base of the Minières valley there is the Neige et Merveilles refuge, and to the west the Relais de Merveilles gîte d’etape at the end of the Gordolasque valley.