Furry/feathered fauna in the Mercantour

It is excellent to see the cross border collaboration between the French and the Italians striving to achieve UNESCO world heritage site status for the National Parks and for other areas in the Alpes-Maritimes and Liguria/Piedmont.

In addition to the French Mercantour National Park web site there is also a site for the combined Parks,

with some English.

Even here in “sunny” – I wish – Berthemont - it has been very interesting recently to see a whole host of tracks left in the snow – badger, fox, deer, roe deer, wild boar and all manner of birdies…..owls a hooting too of course…..and currently all fed up of the Ark weather that the United Kingdom and Europe have been having….

Further afield in the Park itself, there is the equivalent of the Big 5 in Africa – if not quite so prestigious – but hey I’m happy to see ibex, chamois, wolves, golden eagles and lammageias – not bad for starters.  

The diversity extends to the micro too, with the presence of many hundreds of insect/invertebrate species which have been lurking around since the Ice Age and many of which are threatened.

Fun to spot a ptarmigan in the Northern stretches of the Park, as well as green lizards on its Southern boundaries…..

For anyone particularly keen on learning more – look here for a page in English about various topics relating to both National Parks – from where you can download pdf files – currently in French  and Italian only – am sure that Google translate would give a not bad version if your language skills are not tip top.

Want to get to grips with the Mercantour – contact the only British holiday company to be based here in the Mercantour – in the fine Vésubie valley.

Accommodation only or self guided/guided  walking holidays in France  - plus adventure holidays for the adrenaline orientated!!

www.space-between.co.uk

Liz Lord & Mel Jones

Berthemont les Bains

Nick Danziger - living in the Alpes-Maritimes

"I often travel to three or four continents a year, covering locations from furnace-like deserts to teeming mega-cities. I spend too much time at 30,000 feet, but once I am home I am in one of the most beautiful corners of the world. As I look out of my window in the South of France, I can see the beginning of the Mediterranean Alps. Within an hour and a half, my family can trek to unspoilt wilderness areas, walking on to picnic by a lake in an amphitheatre of mountains. Trekking along the border between France and Italy means every picnic is a feast of pain de campagne and bresaola, coated in olive oil and lemon, with olives, cheese and wine. We trek in all seasons, which offers us clear blue Mediterranean skies in summer, blankets of descending mist in autumn, snow in winter, and crisp but usually dry weather in spring. If we are lucky we will spot a chamois or ibex; they are as curious to watch us as we are to watch them. It is not just the physical beauty of this place that takes my breath away, but three elements - home, family and the mountains – that combine to give me the greatest of all possible pleasures".

Nick Danziger 

From Lonely Planet Magazine - May 2010

Your Mercantour hosts - www.space-between.co.uk

Image - view of Argentera - 3400m

Holiday in France - you have to eat well!!! Enjoy local produce and a laugh!

Roquebillière has a busy little rural market with colourful stalls from March to November on the central square of the village.  It has become an indispensable treat for both regular or occasional visitors. Almost 100% of the produce is local and organic!!.    

Established in 2007 to meet local's demand, the market is now organised between a local association of producers - GEDAR and Vesubie Decouverte.  

It is mainly fruit and veg, with some fish, and plants and then..... local cheeses, scrummy home made syrups, olives, not forgetting some organic beauty products, and local crafts - hand made pottery and baskets.

There is also a six yearly larger market which attracts people from further afield - a must for your hunting gear, crimpelene tabards (remember those?) and all manner of charcuterie and other finery.

A great opportunity to go down and browse, admire the view up to Belvedere and indulge in a load of local chit chat.  If you are staying with spacebetween in one of their gites in Berthemont les Bains get down to the village to practice your French!!!

With the summer arts festival organised by the Gens D'Aqui, and the Wednesday evenings free "hops" in the village square - where local favourites Lu Rupau Capeu will have you whirling around as you haven't done since Scottish country dancing at school!!!

Roquebilliere is coming into its own and over shadowing its "big sister" Saint-Martin-Vesubie.  

Bravo Eric, Annie, Jerome et al......

 

Non-exhaustive list of exhibitors

   Annie and Gerard SIC (Sheep; Goat Cheese)
   Lily Creation (pottery ceramic art)
   Philippe RAYMONDO (jams, syrups, eggs)
   MICHEL - fish (shark, whale  ;-)
   Angele CORNILLION (Tome)
   Alex ACTIS (organic vegetables)
   Gilles & Hassina AUBURTIN (organic vegetables)
   Joel CORNIGLION (fruits and vegetables)
   Elise (syrups and jams, gift basket ..)
   Jérôme Payen (mountain honey)
   Vizzone Giuseppe (Italian specialties)
   Isa (fruits and vegetables)
   Sylvain (olives, olive oil &; olive puree)
   Allari Véronique (beads and Murano glass jewelry)
   Audrey (dry grocery organic cosmetics)
   Mauro (Plants and Plant seasons

In French/en francais

Templar in the Mercantour

Whatever your religion, I’m not sure that I know anyone who doesn’t get a little “frisson” when the Knight’s Templar are mentioned – we may well all have been over “hollywood’ed” thanks to Raiders of the Lost Ark and the DaVinci Code.  
Never fear however there is of course a serious and interesting cultural history! Whether or not the first Friday 13^th was on Friday 13^th1307 when many of the Knights were arrested is debatable of course!!
Not keen to be outdone by the likes of Rennes-Le-Chateau we here in the Alpes-Maritimes also have our Templar history - thank you very much.
In our lovely part of the world in the South of France the Templars were stationed in old Roman townships, including Vence where the Templars enjoyed life in the Commanderie in Saint-Martin de Vence which is to the North of the town.  There is a legend that there is “booty” buried in the area – which investigations over the centuries have failed to locate – makes for a nice tale of course and has doubtless had many scurrying for their metal detectors.
Saint-Martin-de-Vence managed the route north of Vence, as the Templar Chateau in La Gaude protected the area above the Var.
Further North of course and into the Vésubie valley, many fine looking hanging villages stand guard over the valley which was an important conduit for the Salt Route, the salt starting out its life in Marseille, to then be shipped along the coast, and hence inland by mule, and over the border into Italy.
One of the finest of these villages is Utelle which had strategic importance due to its elevated position.  Today it has the most stunning views of the Massif of the Mercantour to the North,and down to the Mediterranean to the South.  It used to be an important centre with a hospital and schools and still maintains its handsome 17^th century houses, which include several with engraved lintels – featuring symbols of the House of Savoy as well as other more mysterious ones linked to the Templars.  The Saint-Véran church dominates the village centre.  A further 15 minutes drive the Madone D’Utelle sanctuary is reached – this has its own legend – of course.  Visitors can enjoy the special atmosphere of the plateau, browse the church and the local produce shop as well as staying overnight!
Roquebillière boasts a fine Templar church, and your resident expert on Templars inSainte-Martin Vésubie is Eric Gilli – who has studied the history of the area in great detail.  He runs the local museum, as well as running an Association called AMONT which runs fascinating seminars on local history.
If you’d like to know more contact spacebetween who are based in the Mercantour and offer accommodation plus walking and activity holidays in France and Italy.

The “old Salt” in the Alpes-Maritimes

It’s hard to imagine that humble salt has been transported around the South of France for over two thousand years.  This white gold was produced on the salt flats around Marseille, transported East along the coast of the Med and then taken North with the assistance of mule packs. In its hey day up to 35000 mule trips were made in SE France and on the Italian border.
One route leads from Nice and up towards the Vésubie and the head of the valley. The other major route started from Ventimiglia, up the Roya Valley, to the col deTende and then down into Piedmont.  If you are a keen mountain biker you can even cycle this route these days!!
As you can imagine the history this transport has always been hot – with much danger from marauding hoards and super greedy powers that be, with the Savoyards creating a new route between Nice and Turin via the Haute Vésubie – all within the Savoy territory. 
The Col de Fenestre however was not the most practical solution as the high passes could not be tackled during the winter, so the Roya remained an important route.  Many of the fine hanging villages which dominant the Roya were heavily fortified.
Various shenanigans over the centuries lead to the routes being diverted over the Col de Brouis and via Berghe, being extended towards Menton – all in the cause of protectionism!!
From the 15^th Century up to the French Revolution in 1789 the Gabelle (salt tax) was a controversial measure, perhaps due to the fact that the clergy and nobility were exempt from it!  It is said in fact that the Gabelle was a significant factor in igniting the French way back when.
Think on when you are flavouring up your dinner this evening!!!

Various stretches of the Salt Route in the South of France form part of the itinerary of spacebetween’s walking holidays in France.

Image - Sospel village centre

Walking in the Mercantour - Sainte Etienne de Tinee and beyond.....

Chemin d'Energie - Mercantour - Saint Dalmas le Selvage

Walking in the Mercantour??  I should say
so............
your intrepid explorers at spacebetween, have
been suffering again for the sake of their "art" -
and a reccie further north in the Mercantour to
a stunning area, which (rather shamefully) we'd
never got to before!!
After thee weeks of blazing sunshine, the expedition loomed large, and larger than most it seemed, with
 a rare wind from Lombardy (thanks Italy!), whistling down from the North East with enough gusto to destroy Denis Longfellow's sturdy barnum tent in Le Boreon at 1700m.


As we headed up the Tinee Valley we seemed to be taking the direction of the only cloud cover in the Alpes-Maritimes.....hey ho....going back to bed was not an option.....!!

The D64 leads, rather enticingly, to the Col de la Bonette, so at this time of year is awash with leather clad bikers, but we shall leave them to their fumes and head uphill.  The first parking lot in the Vens area is often full and quite remote, should you be worried about leaving your prize possession un-manned for a couple of days.  While there is also another area just up the track, the route up from here is a bit of a slog, straight up!!

Better to travel on an extra couple of kilometres to La Pra, where there's a resto (Le Pratois!, serving standard looking mountain fare), and a few humans to boot.  The pathway zig zags up before arriving at the gorgeous Plateau de Morgon, and then rises again to the Maison Forestiere de Tortisse.  From there we'd planned to tackle the Col de Fer, but given the "wet day out in the Lake District" weather we decided to head on down the the Vens Refuge and then take a wander out later in the afternoon.  Suitably "tea'd up" we headed up to the Col de Fer in the late afternoon, stunning landscape, and were rewarded with a load of furries in Marmot Alley, then the magnificent sight of some 50 of so mouflons just to the west of the col, running back and forth along the ridge like startled wildebeest.  The location of the refuge is quite stunning, and you can enjoy your evening meal having raised a glass to the donkey power which has provided you with your tasty repast!!!

We'd been keen to do the tantalisingly sounding "Chemin d'Energie".  Alas this is not a Chariot of the Gods moment, but rather, early efforts by EDF to exploit further the area's hydro electric power.   You may only want to do it once; its a flat, rather monotonous walk at 2300m, with incredible views of course, over the Auron and the surrounding mountains into Italy.

We'd missed a wetting on the first day but  there was no escaping the hail and stair rods just twenty minutes before we got to the Rabouns refuge (like the Facebook page!), where we were delighted to re-meet Hugo - the delectable guardian there.  Hugo has worked in various refuges in the Mercantour before being lucky enough to be granted his "own" summer gaff.  Madame Jones was very pleased with her vegetarian meal, and the genepy soaked, post dinner, sugar lumps....yum......

......could have done with a few more to cut out the sound of the (inevitable) snoring but such is refuge life.  There has to be some downside to the joys of being out in the great outdoors!!

The following morning, which loomed blue and clear, we wimped out of Mont Tenibre (3031m), thanks to bllstered feet (I should know better!), but headed happily downhill to the first car park and a welcome Leffe in Sainte Etienne de Tinee.

This week - Mounier!!!


TOP TIPS

Wild camp if you wish (bivvying is possible between 7 pm and 9 am) - but beware of the mozzies at lake side.

Don't light a camp fire - illegal anyway - but this year there are lots of park rangers about and they are within their rights to fine you up to €1500!!!

Take a spare bag and pick up any odds and sods that other scumbags have chosen to leave behind.

The Lacs de Morgon - as photographed by Bruno Hajjar - look wonderful - off piste so no-one much around.

If you are coming in from the Vens Refuge and planning to tackle Tenibre via the Breche, make sure you have an up to date map.  The earlier edition has paths which no longer exist.  Nice pic by Jean-Marie Bree.

Don't forget the earplugs!!

Enjoy!!




Map IGN Haute Tinee - Auron 3639

Snow cleats!!!

You may have thought that owning a pair of snow cleats said as much about you as possessing those must have frumpy checked shirts advertised in the back pages of the Press, tilting chairs, and crimpolene (or is it crimpalene?) tabards, but away with you, they are a great and inexpensive way to prevent yourself inadvertently featuring in the World Ice Skating Championships!!! We have bought several different kinds and come back to the Stabilicers type brand (we found that the Yaktrak [with coiled metal foot plate] didn't last very long and easily pinged off) which is a rubber galoshe which slips over the toe of your boot/shoe and has studs on both the ball of the foot and heel section. They come in various sizes and cost between about £10 and £15. Make sure that you have secured the cleat over both your toe box and the heel so that it is gripping where it should be. These little fellas are great to keep in the car to cope with the kind of weather that the UK is now "enjoying", the type that creeps up on you and you just haven't remembered to put your snow shovel, and luminuous padded coat in the car. Be forewarned - why not!?! In the mountains - the cleats have a superb function on days out, as we have seen in the Mercantour during our winter walking holidays, where is has been cold but there is no snow, with occasional icy patches, especially in areas with have no sunlight in the winter months....easier to pop the cleats on and walk deliberately, planting your feet firmly that to end up scrabbling around the undergrowth trying to avoid the spectacular ice!!! Of course for more serious stuff, snow shoes, half crampons and full crampons give much better purchase. Have a browse on a search engine - I've even seen ones suitable for high heeled shoes - for the fashion victims who don't mind breaking their necks and ruining their Louboutins in snow and ice!! - or get yourselves over here to the Mercantour where we have assorted rubber wear (!) plus plenty of lovely mountains abundant in snow and ice of every shape imaginable.
The picture was taken on a trip in JULY - in the Valmasque - there's a refuge at the far end of the left hand lake - we started out in wonderful Alpine pastures, knee deep in flowers, slept in the super friendly Valmasque refuge - and then slogged up to this view point the day after - be prepared for any weather in the South of France when walking, even in the summer......Enjoy...