Walking in Liguria - a stone's throw from the Mercantour!

If we can only get away for a short break from the Mercantour at any one  time, there could be worse mini escapes in France or Italy, than zooting over the border into Italy!!!

While Italy is only a stone's throw as the golden eagle flies, we either have to drive down to Nice on the coast, east to Ventimiglia and then twenty minutes north into the boonies, or over to the Roya valley to the western edges of lovely Liguria.

Great value accommodation can be found in a handful of agriturismos, where, even in the summer you can get good B&B accommodation for €30-35 per person per night.

In comparison to headier prices found near to the coast on the Cote d'Azur or further west in Provence this is a good deal.  We opted for the Al Pagan, which is just outside the small village of Pigna.

There are six cutely named apartments in the house which has a lovely eyrie position with splendid views over to the village of Baiardo - the driveway is not for the faint-hearted but it's do-able.

You'll receive a hearty welcome from Roberto and Elisa and the cats and dog.  We were pleased to enjoy wine from their neighbouring vineyard and delicious fresh fruit and vegetables from their own veg patch.

We'd had a home cooked and rather belly busting lunch in La Posta in the middle of sleepy Pigna - rather overwhelmed by the delicious, but just too difficult to resist, plate of "nibbles" (ho ho!) and the home made pasta.  Regrettably (no!) we were obliged to sit and watch the sun go down from our own little garden way above Pigna (see above).

The following day we were up early and well motivated to get some calorie-burning done....while the countryside is more rolling than chez nous in the Mercantour, there are peaks over 2000m and what appeared to be a good Via Ferrata to have a play on.  The circuit around Colla Melosa  was splendid - with the most fabulous array of turban lillies that we have ever seen - we are now reaping the benefits of the wet weather we have been having (never mind the excitement of mushroom gatherers!).....but sadly after completing a fair chunk of the VF with no issue - it appeared that much of the paths have been swept away and not replaced, making a bit "hairy" to do without roping up!!!

Returning to Pigna, a swim in the clear blue waters of the thermal baths might have appeared attractive (see below) we weren't tempted to penetrate its glossy exterior - bit of a carbuncle in the midst of unspoilt countryside but there were plenty of guests there!!  We are lucky that there is not enough flat constructable for the powers that be to construct something as monstrous in Berthemont les Bains - where we are lucky enough to reside 24/7365!!!
.

Suitably refreshed in the morning we are keen to try out the Casa e Bottega in Dolceaqua - an offshoot off the well known Osteria dell AD!! - which is located in the central square of DA - and well worth a visit for pretty good nosh at very reasonable price in a great location.

Well worth a visit - for good quality food at very reasonable prices - before the usual assault on Italian supermarkets in the afternoon, and a calm return to France!!

 Do it - Liguria is stunning - and this article from the Guardian will offer some more advice for taking it all in.

Given the wealth of beautiful scenery, good refuges and its proximity to us - spacebetween - we are happy to offer short breaks across the border - get in touch if you need some pasta in your menu. 

Ciao for now!!!!!

Accommodation on GR 52/52A - Walking holidays in France

Fancy taking one of the many trail walks (Grandes Randonnees) which snake across the Alpes-Maritimes in France? If you do so, book away and come and enjoy some of the best walking in Europe if not the globe......however before you do so spare a thought for securing your accommodation before you set out on foot......

We spacebetween, have been lucky enough to be in a German guide book following a visit by a journo back in the early days of our life here........this is all well and good but the guide book talks of chambre d'hote accommodation, which we no longer do, and makes no mention of the need to book in advance, particularly in the high season. 

As a result, we have many a hopeful face arrive at our door in the early evening in July and August. 

Given that the Hotel des Thermes here in Berthemont is now closed, the Colonie de Vacances - La Semeuse rarely able to take one nighters, and there is little else, we do erect a three podded tent in our garden during the summer so at the very worst passers by can do "comfy camping" with mattresses and duvets, access to a bathroom and a home cooked dinner!!!

We have gained the reputation for being the best accommodation on the GR 52/52a and even the GR5 which is going some, given that the GR5 starts in Holland and runs south!!!

In recent years reputations have ebbed and flowed, hotels have come and gone so here is a run down of recommended places to stay in our vicinity around the Tinee and Vesubie valleys.

VALDEBLORE

The Grand Chalet
Auberge des Mures - recent revamp and restaurant makeover - keen to offer veggie and gluten free menus

LE BOREON

L'Arberc - chalet and yourtes with horses for summer rents

BERTHEMONT

La Zourciere

LA BOLLENE - Hotel du Parc closing.

LANTOSQUE

La Source - restaurant and chambre d'hote

COL DE TURINI

Hotel Le Chamois

Gite - Peira Cava 

Otherwise many of the villages have gites communaux, or there is the Hotel Saint Sebastien and the Bar des Sports in Roquebilliere, and the La Ferme des Cartons and La Ferme chambre d'hote but these require a descent into the Vesubie valley!!!!! 

For more information always consider checking out this very useful major Vesubie website.

Saint Martin, despite being the main tourist village of the Vesubie, is rather a wasteland for lodging and eating!!

Good places to eat include Le Provencal & Hotel Saint Sebastien in Roquebilliere, L'Ancien Abbattoir in Belvedere, La Source in Lantosque.

Don't miss the Wednesday night dancing fests in Roquebilliere in July and August and the cultural events run by Les Gens d'Aqui.

Enjoy!!!!

Trail running in France - Mercantour Station de Trail.....

 

The Mercantour continues to put itself on the map with its innovations in sporting trends.  After initiating the outside ice climbing structure in Le Boreon - which becomes a summer climbing attraction in the summer months - the area has just launched a new "Station de Trail" in the Vesubie.  The new trail running centre is only the third in France - following in the footsteps - no pun intended - of the Chartreuse and Vercors regions.  

Of course the Alpes-Maritimes department has tremendous diversity, and the Mercantour is perfect for trail running.  

The centres have four objectives

1) To provide waymarked circuits which are graded in the same way as ski runs - green, blue, red and black.

2) To offer a training ground for the "die hard" devotees of the sport where they might train to take part in such events as the Vertical Kilometre - next planned for June 2013.

3) To advise interested visitors of what they may care to do on the trails.

4) To have a hub site - www.stationdetrail-vesubie.com - which runners can become a member of, to post their times, chat to other fitness keen folks etc.

The training aspects also cater for beginners and aerobic champions alike!!!

There's plenty of information on the Station de Trail website - in German, English, Spanish and Italian no less, plus a useful brochure which I'm sure could be ordered from the Saint Martin Vesubie tourist office - 00 33 (0)4 93 21 28. 

To enjoy your holiday in the Mercantour - get in touch with spacebetween walking and adventure holidays - they don't have trail running as part of their holiday programmes as yet, but they do have great accommodation for you to stay in if you want to come and do your own thing.  Bit of a no-brainer - just an hour from Nice....and good weather!!!!

Holiday in France - you have to eat well!!! Enjoy local produce and a laugh!

Roquebillière has a busy little rural market with colourful stalls from March to November on the central square of the village.  It has become an indispensable treat for both regular or occasional visitors. Almost 100% of the produce is local and organic!!.    

Established in 2007 to meet local's demand, the market is now organised between a local association of producers - GEDAR and Vesubie Decouverte.  

It is mainly fruit and veg, with some fish, and plants and then..... local cheeses, scrummy home made syrups, olives, not forgetting some organic beauty products, and local crafts - hand made pottery and baskets.

There is also a six yearly larger market which attracts people from further afield - a must for your hunting gear, crimpelene tabards (remember those?) and all manner of charcuterie and other finery.

A great opportunity to go down and browse, admire the view up to Belvedere and indulge in a load of local chit chat.  If you are staying with spacebetween in one of their gites in Berthemont les Bains get down to the village to practice your French!!!

With the summer arts festival organised by the Gens D'Aqui, and the Wednesday evenings free "hops" in the village square - where local favourites Lu Rupau Capeu will have you whirling around as you haven't done since Scottish country dancing at school!!!

Roquebilliere is coming into its own and over shadowing its "big sister" Saint-Martin-Vesubie.  

Bravo Eric, Annie, Jerome et al......

 

Non-exhaustive list of exhibitors

   Annie and Gerard SIC (Sheep; Goat Cheese)
   Lily Creation (pottery ceramic art)
   Philippe RAYMONDO (jams, syrups, eggs)
   MICHEL - fish (shark, whale  ;-)
   Angele CORNILLION (Tome)
   Alex ACTIS (organic vegetables)
   Gilles & Hassina AUBURTIN (organic vegetables)
   Joel CORNIGLION (fruits and vegetables)
   Elise (syrups and jams, gift basket ..)
   Jérôme Payen (mountain honey)
   Vizzone Giuseppe (Italian specialties)
   Isa (fruits and vegetables)
   Sylvain (olives, olive oil &; olive puree)
   Allari Véronique (beads and Murano glass jewelry)
   Audrey (dry grocery organic cosmetics)
   Mauro (Plants and Plant seasons

In French/en francais

Seen a wolf in France - what to do.....

Hey you have been very lucky - usually you can be sure of a wolf in the Alpha Wolf Park in Le Boreon, but you can see wild wolves as our friends have recently on the Col de Turini - alerted to the presence of their lupine "friends" by their patou dog - who only barks at wolves - never at dogs!!!

If you do have the chance to observe a wolf in the wild, take pictures if you can or at least photograph hair, scat, footprints or evidence of kills or their lairs.

Use the size reference of your hand to provide a guideline, and if you are equipped with a plastic bag do take samples with you for presentation to either the National Park office here in the Mercantour, or to the Ferus site.

We space-between once had a horse riding customer, who was sure he had seen wolves in the mid distance, when out doing the Transhumance, but said nothing because he thought it was a regular occurence!!

Please be vigilant and report any useful sightings to those who are lucky enough to earn a living working with these fabulous animals!!

The picture is of Christian Lorenzetti - local wolf enthusiast and friend who runs a lovely gite in Valdeblore,

Or you could also stay next to the Alpha wolf park at Denis the Horse's chalet and enjoy great food at O a la Bouche!!! 

A little chi chi anyone???

After this rather mixed bag of weather over Easter - here in Berthemont les Bains in the Mercantour it started out warm and sunny and now there is cloud and a nasty Northern blast to the wind - you may well be starting to think about your next walking holiday in France or Italy.

Don't delay if you wish to come and visit your chums Liz & Mel - as their accommodation is already getting pretty full.....but don't forget that over and above the delights of the Mercantour National Park, there is much fun to be had on the coast.  You may wish to avoid July and August in Nice but for most of the time you can enjoy the Alpes-Maritimes without the revenue of Prince Albert of Monaco.   There are plenty of good value hotels and restaurants - ask for more information by all means, and it is always possible to fill up on pizza and icecream if you must!!!!  The Saint Exupery hostels comes highly recommended, plus the €1 bus anywhere* in the Alpes-Maritimes means that your dollar/pound, whatever, can go a long way!!!   * Note that to get a €1 ticket from the airport to town, all you need to do is take a 5 minute walk onto the Prom des Anglais.....otherwise it is €4 for a day pass!

A nice way of wiling (not sure about the spelling of that!!) a morning is to take a glass of rose in the Nice flower market - lots of scrummy things to buy but if you have the opportunity to cook for yourself get to the section where local growers are selling their freshly pulled produce.....and thank heavens it is not UK supermarket beautiful - but the fruit and veg taste great.

With your rose, enjoy a plate of socca if you can......if you've never heard of it - go for it - it's a chick pea flour type pancake which is cooked on a flat griddle pan and then served with enough freshly ground salt and pepper to make you really want to get your face into it!!

To make it at home is simple - it's a mix of chick pea flour (farine pois chiche) 250g, 4 tablespoons of olive oil, 500ml of water - all beaten together, left to rest for 30 minutes and then cooked in a heavy bottomed pan to achieve a crispy base - and (at home at least) easiest to finish it off under a hot grill.....  French style is thin and crispy - Italian style a bit thicker and more stodgy - I'm saying NOTHING!!!

It's easy but you have to stand sentinel over the grill but it's a perfect tear and share type nibble with your early evening apero whilst admiring the sunset or playing boules!!!  and of course it's perfect for vegetarians.

Ask spacebetween to make you some when you are having a break in the Mercantour.....a bit of spice may be thrown in - but that's not unusual......

Holidays in the South of France - rarely disappointing!!!

Bonne fin de Paques.....


Thanks to Lindsey of Sinclair Exposed for the images....

Easter in the Mountains in the South of France?!!

Need a last minute holiday in France? - Easter is VERY early this year for sure - in Northern Europe we all seems to have suffered a severe dousing of rain and snow - and once the sun does come out we are looking for a bummer crop of grass for our hungry horses!

However one thing at a time - while it might have been raining here at 861m - up higher - and we do have higher! - the snow is astonishing - which has lead most of our ski resorts here - including La Colmiane, Auron, Isola 2000 etc and of course Le Boreon - for the wolf park and cross country skiing - never mind the perfect untrodden opportunities for snow shoeing in the Mercantour!! - staying open for the Easter weekend,

It seems as if people both here and in the UK have rather been hedging their bets - and there does appear to be accommodation available at this late stage in the game - including for our gites in Berthemont les Bains ......

We're also running a snow shoeing week from April 6th - once the holiday flights prices have subsided...this was meant to be a Mercantour Reflections week - but hey ho - let's not put those snow shoes away as yet.....it's perfect - as when the sun does come out it has been close to 20 degrees in the midday sun - just about okay to enjoy a tartiflette in the sunshine......

A last minute walking break in France - get it booked - fly to Nice and let us do the rest!!!

Vegetarians are very welcome......

Hope to see you soon.....

Liz
spacebetween